The article discusses the visit of Western journalists to a small village in Darfur, in the western part of South Sudan, under the protection of the African Union (AU) peacekeeping mission. When they learned that a brutal government-backed militia called Janjaweed was heading towards the village, they faced an impossible decision: leave Sudan and report the atrocities to the world, or risk their own lives in the hope of avoiding a massacre. The article highlights the difficult choices and dangers faced by journalists reporting on conflict zones, and the ethical and moral dilemmas they encounter.